John Quigley, chef-patron of the Red Onion Restaurant in Glasgow, shows how to cook Finnan Haddie, a Scottish delicacy dating back to the sixteenth century.

A pale, golden, smoked haddock from Findon near Aberdeen, it is filleted, cleaned and lightly salted, before being "cold smoked" for 2 or 3 hours. At this stage the haddock is seasoned but still raw.

The only way not to cook Finnan Haddie is to pan-fry it. Instead, grill it in a little butter, or bake in a hot oven (400-450F) for six or seven minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish.

It goes well with a creamy Bechamel sauce, a sauce Mornay, using single cream, a tablespoon of Parmesan and some grated old cheddar. Simmer until the cheese melts and thickens the sauce, then add chopped parsley and frozen peas.

Peel some soft flowery white potato, then chop into even sizes – diced to around two inches. Cook then drain, add unsalted butter, cream or milk, salt and pepper to taste, then mash.

Poach an egg in a pan of simmering water that has been whisked to create a vortex so that the egg stays together.

Place potatoes on plate, drape finnan haddie over potatoes, cover with Mornay sauce and top with the poached egg.

1 lb cold smoked Haddock

1 medium onion, finely chopped

4 oz butter

1 tsp garam marsala or curry powder

12 oz Basmati rice

4 hard boiled eggs – 2 roughly chopped, 2 quartered

½ pint cream

salt and pepper

1 tsp chopped parsley

Simmer haddock in water. Do not overcook. Drain & save water.

Flake fish.

Fry onion gently in butter with garam marsala.

Cook rice in haddock water & drain.

Add onion to rice and fold in fish and chopped eggs.

Pour in cream & add quartered eggs.

Season and sprinkle with parsley.